Kolhapuri Chappals: Heritage Footwear under Global Spotlight

Kolhapuri chappals are traditional handcrafted leather sandals from Maharashtra, now at the centre of a cultural appropriation debate following their imitation by Italian luxury brand Prada.

Origin and Craftsmanship

Kolhapuri chappals trace their origins to the 12th-13th centuries under King Bijjala and Basavanna. Made in Kolhapur and adjoining districts of Karnataka, they use vegetable-tanned buffalo hide without nails, featuring braided leather straps and intricate designs. This eco-friendly footwear symbolises rural craftsmanship, heritage, and sustainable fashion.

GI Tag and Cultural Significance

In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag, jointly registered by Maharashtra and Karnataka artisans. The GI status protects the use of the “Kolhapuri” name within India, safeguarding traditional manufacturing processes and regional identity.

Prada Controversy and Cultural Appropriation

Prada’s Men’s Spring Summer 2026 collection featured sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals, priced over ₹1 lakh, while artisans in India earn as low as ₹400 per pair. Industrialist Harsh Goenka criticised Prada for profiting from Indian culture without crediting original creators. Artisans met Deputy CM Devendra Fadnavis, demanding government intervention.

Challenges in Global IP Protection

India’s GI Act protects products domestically, but lacks international enforcement. Global IP frameworks favour individual ownership, not community-based traditions, leaving indigenous crafts vulnerable to exploitation without consent or benefit-sharing.

The Kolhapuri chappal controversy highlights global fashion’s persistent cultural inequities. Protecting artisan livelihoods and ensuring fair recognition of traditional crafts are essential steps towards ethical consumption and economic justice in an increasingly globalised market.